Lyon Dress

Have you heard of the Sew What Club? It's a sewing pattern club with children's and ladies patterns. You can sign up for either option or both (me).

The Lyon dress was the second girls pattern to be released this month. I sewed it up right away... late into the evening when I should have been sleeping. I used a quilting cotton that was a gift from a mini quilt swap I participated in.

I used single fold bias tape instead of double and hid it on the inside of the neckline and arm openings. I really liked my fabric and didn't want to break it up so I overlapped the top and bodice pieces by 3/8" and then traced onto my tissue. I also cut the 5/6. 

There are several things I'll change for my next one. The head opening is a bit small for my girl, and length is a bit short. I think we could go with the 7/8 for her. She's almost 6 but she's tall and a bit big for her age... which is OK. Her dad and I are tall... it's to be expected.  I think the 7/8 would be a better length. I also plan on altering where I put the elastic. It hits my girl right on the roundest part of her belly, which she finds uncomfortable, and she dresses for comfort first and cuteness second. I think it would be better above, she wants it to go below so that's probably what we'll do.

All in all it's a fast and cute make with several options. She enjoyed wearing this one so much. Also she's been giving me more "serious model face" lately in these kinds of photos. I don't know why. She's kind of shy but I think she also feels a bit special and sassy.
 

Sneak Peek Saturday

Can I just say thank you to all that have stopped by and left comments in the last couple days. THANK YOU! 

Can Sneak Peek Saturday be a thing? A once in a while thing? A too excited to wait to properly blog thing? I hope so... because I'm doing it.

Ok, I pattern tested another little dress for my daughter. The pattern hasn't been released yet, I need to photograph it on my daughter, and then I'll properly blog this little number... but I couldn't resist sharing a couple pics.

If the Shoe Fits

I am a big fan of Project Sewn. If you're not following the competition you should be. It's so fun to see what everyone comes up with, and so great to see the ladies personalities come through in what they make. I love that sewing is so customizable to individual style. Anyway each week there is a theme and you can sew along and link up your creation. This week I'm participating. It was so great to have a goal and theme for my me sewing this week.

This weeks theme is "If the Shoe Fits." I have a great pair of shoes my husband bought me several years ago after seeing me oogle them while window shopping. He snuck into my closet to figure out my shoe size. Then he bought them and surprised me with them. I guess I'm a bit sentimental about them. Anyway they're black and white with a bit of a fun graphic pattern. So I shopped my stash and found some graphic black and white/cream fabric. Also these shoes are real leather, even the sole, so fancy... so I used that to inspire my leather look sleeves.

I used V8670 and extended the hem to be a dress. I cut size 10, which is the size I've used before to make 3 unblogged versions of this top... got to get on that. All my previous versions use a heavier knit but this sweater knit has a bit more drape and stretch so I ended up taking it in quite a bit. In the end I had a 2 inch seam allowance to get it this fitted, but normally the size I cut is just perfect.

I found this fabric in Nov/Dec at Joann's down in Arizona. I am probably at Joann's once a week and had never seen it before and I bought what was left on the bolt, which was just enough to get the bodice of this dress. The sleeves are a stretch faux leather that I found at a local fabric store, Nuttal's if you're in Utah, I have a lot of this still and might make another skirt out of it. I hemmed the sleeves with hem tape and used a pressing cloth, which is my fancy way of saying a bit of scrap cotton ;)

Wide Leg Linen Pants

So I had to mend a suit jacket for my husband last night. Famous last words: "it'll just take 5 minutes..." Ha! I had to unpick the machine stitching and just hand stitch because it needed to look good and now I told him he has to baby that jacket.

Also, recently, I cut my hair even more. I'm still getting used to it but I love having short easy hair to manage. I've been making lots of earrings lately to feminize my look. I'll blog about them soon... when I can get the husband to photograph me wearing them. Oh and I got a remote and tripod so the pics below were taken by me. Hard to make sure you're in the frame and focused but I'll get it.

My cousin, the woman/mastermind behind Jocole, has been on a roll with her pattern releases lately. The newest one are these wide leg pants. They're great and can be made in a woven or knit. And palazzo pants are coming back ya'll so this would be a perfect pattern... just use a silky woven with good drape. Anyway here are my pics and review. Don't sew? These are available in my etsy shop.

  

Pattern Description: Ladies Wide leg Pants

These sneaky pants look super classy but feel comfy like pajamas ... shhhhh, we won't tell on you. 

Pull-on wideleg pants features an easy-on, comfortable, knit waistband (skinny, regular or fold-over -- wear yoga waistband up for more coverage and support).

The Wideleg version is straight down from the hips and Super Wide leg version is flared out below the hip.

Patterns includes 5 length length options: short length and capri length options, and Petites, Regular and Tall full length.

This pattern is QUICK to make.  The hardest and most time consuming part is printing, taping and cutting -- but it sews together fast.
 Pattern Sizing: XS - XXXL. I cut the Medium. When choosing which size my waist and upper hip are a medium but the widest part of my body would have put me in a large. I could have graded into the large but I measured the pattern pieces and felt there was enough ease to just stick with the medium and that worked out for me. If you're unsure you can always make a muslin in the short length.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love this pattern! It sews up so quickly just like the description says. They're comfy and look nice. I can't wait to make a khaki version or maybe white for summer. Also... maybe I'll actually try that palazzo pant trend with this pattern... who knows.
Fabric Used: Linen/rayon blend so I'd have less wrinkles. Also my knit waistband seems closer to a rib knit.

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added patch pockets, and now the pattern includes patch pockets and instructions to add them. Love that!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes.
Conclusion: It's a great pattern and sews up quickly and everyone who tested loved them. I'll be making more.

Leather Look Pencil Skirt

Here's an old project I have never shared. It's the Ladies Knit Pencil Skirt from Jocole Patterns. Another one I tested. I'm not going to review it today, but just let you know it's a great pattern that just pulls on, because it's a knit, and has a yoga-style waistband. I used a knit fabric that looks like leather. Pencil skirts are a favorite thing to sew because they sew up super quickly. They're also my favorite skirts to wear. 

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Jack and Jill Jacket Pattern Review

So like I mentioned, I tested two patterns about two weeks ago. They are both being released this week and so I'm highlighting them on the blog. The first up is this jacket. My daughter loves this jacket and so it was worth all the time and effort. I used a ruffle fabric so I had to pin like crazy to make sure the ruffles were laying in the right direction as I sewed, which slowed me down. It was worth it in the end.

Pattern Description: Jack & Jill Jacket from Modkid Boutique.  A unisex zip up jacket featuring a large side wrap-around pocket, a fully lined hood with drawstring, and a lined bodice for extra comfort and warmth. 

Pattern Sizing: I made the 4T and it was a perfect fit for my girl.
 
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They were. And she has great illustrations to go with. I didn't pin baste the zipper but instead used steam a seam and it worked out great. There's a free craftsy class on zippers and that's where I learned that trick. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pattern is great and my daughter LOVES the jacket and LOVES the pockets. She was very concerned about the pockets during the whole sewing process. It takes a while to put a lined jacket together and if you try to do it in one sitting it can be a bit overwhelming, but if you spread it out over a couple sewing sessions it's no big deal and you'll have a fun jacket to show for it.

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Little Miss Derby Jacket

I sewed this the beginning of this year, before I started this blog. This has to be one of my favorite things I've ever made my daughter. The color was perfect, the lining was a fun addition, and it made me realize I could do more than I thought when it came to sewing. It was an empowering project.

I'm blogging this today because the pattern is currently half off for today only! I'm not being compensated to endorse this product, I just love it! Don't sew? The coat is available in my etsy shop as well.

Pattern Description: Little Miss Derby Jacket. This super cute fully-lined cropped coat features an empire waist with a button-up front. The ruffle is longer in the back and it's topped with a super cute bow (optional). A simple sophisticated straight collar and the faux princess lies really add a traditional touch. You'll love this coat, and it never goes out of style. The perfect addition to a fall or winter outfit.

 
Pattern Sizing:  4T
 
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes. I never realized I could sew a jacket and was nervous but the instructions made this very doable.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's so cute what's not to love. I want to make another this year as a reversible coat, or a raincoat with an added hood. 

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Chevron Seafarer

This is my favorite piece I think I've made. I love to wear it! It's the Seafarer Top pattern. Here are my variations.

1. Didn't fold armband and extended the length so it would be a bracelet length sleeve.
2. Lengthened the top by 1-2".
3. Cut the front piece on the bias. I did this by laying the piece on the fabric diagonally. Cut out one piece, not on fold. Then I took that piece and laid it on top of the fabric diagonally, right sides together, and matching up stripes and cut out another piece. I forgot to add a seam allowance to the center seam but would recommend doing that.
4. This time I bound the neckline instead of using a band.

Also used my favorite trick for matching patterns to get that chevron in the front perfect.

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Serger and Bibs

I finally got a serger. When I was just starting out sewing I knew I wasn't ready for one. I had to unpick things all the time and sewing was more frustrating than fun sometimes... and I needed a machine that was slow so I could have a chance to get things right. Now I sew daily and I can actually wear what I make so I want things finished better.

Now I'm ready.

I'm lucky that I have a friend with the same machine so she showed me how to thread it and use it a little.

The first thing I made were these bibs for my etsy shop.  I've drafted a pattern for them but haven't digitized it yet. Also all the chevron ones were made with scraps and some lining. The guitar one I made for my boy and it's so stinking cute on him, and I had enough fabric to make 2.

Mint HiLo Raglan

I love print at home patterns. They're a pain in the rear because you have to print, tape and cut the pattern, but I think they're great. I love that I don't have to leave home to pick it up or wait for it to ship. When sewing for kids I think they're the best because I can just reprint and cut when they size up. I don't like tracing patterns... I think eventually I'll trace all my patterns but I'm not there yet.

I have found a few cute patterns on etsy, including this one. I was also wanting to get this sewn up as soon as I had purchased it but for some reason messed up my payment method. The shop owner was super sweet and sent me the pattern link early. 

I used a mint sweater knit that I found at a local fabric shop. It's very lightweight so I'll layer it with a long sleeve shirt underneath as it gets cooler.  

Pattern Description: Hi Lo Raglan. A casual dolman top sewing pattern with long raglan sleeves and a hi-lo hem. View B features a lined hood for the cool evenings. This top is a perfect fashion staple for any boho wardrobe!

Pattern Sizing: I made the Medium but will make the small in the future. It's made to be loose so it's fine either way.
 
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? She recommends interfacing the neckline and I thought that was a great idea... especially with my thinner knit.  I like how it's a comfy top and great to pair with skinnies. It'll also be great with leggings and is long enough in the back to cover up your bum. 

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Striped Dress

I've loved this dress for a while:

When I was first checking out girlcharlee.com I saw this fabric and she had suggested making this dress with it. Um, yes! So eventually I bought the fabric to make the dress.

Here's my version:

I used a new favorite pattern and my TNT S2599 combined with a self drafted A-line skirt. I used the Seafarer Top pattern from Sew Much Ado. I made a shirt using this pattern too but I keep wearing it and not photographing it. Anyway I love the pattern and plan on making 2 more for fall in the next couple weeks.

I used the Seafarer Top pattern for the neckline and sleeves. Then I laid my S2599 over it and used it to make the bodice wide enough and know where to cut for my elastic casing.

I matched up my stripes using my pattern matching trick! I love it... I'm blowing through my steam a seam now because I keep sewing up stripes!

For the skirt I just made sure to cut the waist the same width as the bottom of the top and then I went out from there.  Also I always curve the hem a little at the side seams so they don't get too pointy. I might have to draw a pic of that sometime because I'm not sure I'm describing it very well.

I pair this with a belt when I'm wearing it out and about. I love how the dress turned out and might have to make another next summer. Next time I plan on turning the neckline under... for some reason my banded neckline seemed a bit small this time.

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

Coral Shirt with Ruffle Shoulder

Well I've started working on my daughter's Fall/Winter wardrobe. It had been nagging me for a while and so I just started. Plus this way when the temperatures drop I don't have to scramble to make her things and have her with no clothing... that may have happened before. This is another thing I made using scraps. This time the leftovers came from my coral maxi skirt. She loves this top, and now she loves when I make her things... a couple years ago she hated anything I had made. 

Also, I've made clothing tags and have started attaching them to the items I make. I love them and will have to post a pic soon. They're also really helpful for little girls who dress themselves... things were always a bit confusing for her when my home made items didn't have tags.

 Pattern Description: Cap-Sleeve A-Line Dress.

Versatile pattern with multiple variations make this a pattern you'll reach for again and again. Simple a-line shape lends itself easily to various embellishments.

3 sleeve options: cap-sleeves, 3/4 sleeves and long sleeves

4 neckline options: jewel neck, scoop neck, v neck and boat neck

3 length options: hip length, tunic length, below the knee length

Yup, you read that right ... T-E-N different options.

Pattern Sizing: I cut a size 3 in the body and neckline, and a size 5 in the arm/sleeve. Next time I would cut a 6 in the arm because my kid just has full arms for this pattern. I made this in the tunic length with the 5T 3/4 sleeve option... which was just a tad too short so next time we'll choose a different sleeve length.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done with it? Yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I still kind of do my own thing but it's nice to refer back to the instructions if needed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love how quickly this pattern comes together. I sewed this up in less than an hour and think if you're a seasoned seamstress you could print and tape the pattern, cut your pieces and sew the tunic/dress in about an hour total. If you're new it might take 2 but still you could get almost all of it done during nap time! One of the things that makes this pattern so easy is the way you set in the sleeves. You just need to be able to sew a straight line and you don't even need to pin anything. So easy!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Added ruffles to the shoulder.

Please forgive her hair... these were taken after hours of playing and on a windy day... plus her hair is just on the wild side anyway.

Would you sew it again? Yes. I've made two thus far, this was my second and plan on making more in the tunic length. It just comes together so easily and is a great jumping off point for anything you can come up with.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes

And with that face our picture taking was done... 

~ ~ ~ Risa ~ ~ ~

 

Pattern Matching

I know there are lots of ways to do things. And maybe you've seen this before... but if you haven't... then here's a post for you.

This is how I match up my patterned fabric when I want the pattern to match at the side seams. I do this for my chevron shirts, my chevron maxi, and my daughter's maxi skirt... I'll also use this trick when I sew up my striped dress... whenever that happens ;)  Too much fabric means too many projects!


1. Start with Steam-A-Seam. There are 2 rolls in the package and that's a ton... I'm not even half way through my first roll.

2. Unroll it and tear off a piece the length of your pattern piece. Press the sticky side onto the fabric where your seam will be and where you want to match the pattern. Make sure to align it on the edge of the fabric so it stays within your seam allowance.

3. Lightly press according to package directions.

4. When cool gently pull off the paper.  Make sure you're not pulling up the webbing. You can see it in this pic as it slightly mutes the colors.

5. Take your other pattern piece and gently press the two pieces together  by hand, matching up the pattern.

6. Gently press with an iron.

7. When cool take the pieces to the machine and sew up your seam. Make sure your seam allowance is at least 3/8" so the Steam-A-Seam stays in the seam allowance.

I know you can do the same thing with pins but things still get a bit shifty and some stabbing may occur... or at least that happens around these parts. I find this step takes less time or just as long as pinning and works better. 

Is this how you match patterns? If not try it and let me know how it works for you.

~ Risa ~